2 posts from March 2009

Constructing a Hoop
The hoop is first covered with paper ribbon, which is simply wound around the hoop and held firmly at the join with florists’ tape. The flowers are wired and taped, using the appropriate methods, and bound together with fine binding wire. The wires are divided into two sections and bent outwards after being trimmed to approximately 2.5cm (un). They are then taped onto the hoop and the leaves pulled over the taping to conceal it.
Another way to make this type of design would be to make a garland and wind it around the hoop.
Choice of materials
Small dainty flowers Stokes Croft are the most suitable for a hoop; large flowers are too heavy and would be difficult to balance. They would also be visually too heavy for such a dainty design.
As with any bridal design, the colours will be chosen to match the dresses of the bride and her bridesmaids, and the flowers to match the bride’s bouquet. Ribbon trails may be used to complete the design.

Helpful tips for cut flower care
A little extra care can make a big difference for any size or type of flower arrangement or fresh flower bouquet. We recommend that you use the following as a guide to maximise the life of your flower delivery Sidcup.

• Make sure vases are very clean.
• Use fresh lukewarm water with commercial cut flower food added.
• Strip all leaves below the water level.
• Take at least 3cm (1") off all stems, making a slanted cut with a sharp knife or very sharp scissors.
• Avoid direct sunlight, heat, or draughts which can shorten flowers' lives.
• Keep flowers away from fruit and remove faded flowers as they occur.
• Top up the water regularly and add flower food in proportion.

Suitable flowers for all-round arrangement
To achieve the type of shape necessary for this design, a spike-shaped flower or foliage is ideal. The astilbe flower and foliage has been used well to form the outline shape. Other suitable flowers would be aconitums, campanulas, wax flowers, crocosmias, small or large gladioli or deiphiniurns, combined with ruscus, leatherleaf or eucalyptus foliage.
Once an outline has been established, a main line of more dominant flowers is taken through the centre of the design. Flowers suitable for this would include roses, carnations, gerberas, lilies and chrysanthemum blooms. The design is then completed using filler flowers, such as freesias, alstroemerias, and spray carnations, using the essential design principles to give the arrangement a pleasing shape. These include balance, harmony, scale, proportion and texture and each will be integral to any flower delivery Darebin you design.

Bulb Placement
Intermingling bulbs with herbaceous plants and other flowers Greenfield presents some challenges. Some bulb leaves disappear dur­ing the growing season. The foliage of magic lilies (Lycoris) and autumn crocuses, for example, comes up early and then disappears; the flowers do not appear until late summer. Daffodils and other spring bulbs leave no aboveground sign after they have died back in early summer, and summer bulbs like crocosmias often are tardy in appearing. It's easy to mistakenly dig into the hidden bulbs. The solution is to give these bulbs their own spots within the bed, set aside by visible markers if your memory is not perfect. We plant our spring bulbs at the very front. As their foliage yellows, we plant annuals among them to camouflage and then take their place for the summer. The autumn crocuses have their own home at the ends of the bed, and the crocosmia spaces are marked by inconspicuous, short wooden stakes.
Set bulbs in clumps where they will make a state­ment. One gladiolus, for example, looks like the odd man out in a perennial border, but gladioli set in clumps of five or seven are attention-getters.

Revitalize Dried Flowers
Dried flowers can be revitalized with misted water or a bit of steam. Dried material that is brittle or has been bundled tightly together can be misted with water from a spray bottle to soften it. If the material is still tightly bunched, remove the rubber band or wire from the stems and lightly mist the upper portion while separating the stems. Do not soak the material, as it will become soggy and difficult to use. Be sure to allow the flowers to dry completely before using.
The blossom size of dried flowers with layers of petals such as roses and peonies can be made larger by holding the blossom over hot steam, then gently teasing the petals open with a small, firm paintbrush. Repeat the process until the blossom is opening to your satisfaction. Do not force the petals as they can tear or separate from the blossoms. Potpourri oil can be added to the steam to infuse the blossom with a delicate fragrance.
To prevent the shedding of petals, spray the finished arrangement with a light coat of sealer. There are products made especially for this purpose and can be found in a Ardwick flower shop.

Preparing an Open Posy
With the materials and container ready and prepared, start by using a sharp knife to cut foliage stems to points, then insert the foliage securely into the foam to form a circular outline around the rim of the container.
Add pieces of foliage to the top of the foam to create a domed profile. Next, add a curving line of focal flowers, the main flower being the tallest, and positioned at the centre. Fill in the outline shape with the bud materials. Insert open flowers and pieces of foliage at varying levels to fill in the centre of the design and to strengthen the elevated profile.
Recess some flowers and foliage to hide the foam and give visual depth. Look at the posy from all angles to check that it is complete and that no foam has been left visible. Ask your assistant florist Boyle Heights to spray lightly and store in the chiller.

Water Immersion can help those blooms
Some cut materials can absorb water through the epidermal cells surrounding the stem and leaves. This method of complementing water taken up by the roots has led to the development of foliar feeds.
Violets have the additional advantage of a cuticle that is less restricting than that of other plants. The cuticle is a waxy, waterproof layer, exuded by the epidermis. Holly and laurel have tough cuticles, whereas violets, rose leaves and new foliage have thin cuticles. A good florist Moss Landing will take advantage of these facts when preparing cut materials.
Immersion in tepid water is beneficial for violets, some tropical flowers, soft, young foliage, and wilted materials. Petals can be damaged by prolonged immersion, so this should only be for a short time — some ten to twenty minutes would be sufficient for anthuriums and dendrobiums, or an hour for violets, young foliages and wilted flowers, such as roses.
Hairy leaves should not be submerged, and nor should grey foliage, which will lose its colour until it has dried out. Waxy and fleshy flowers should not be submerged, as they will discolour and stain.

A Valentine’s Window
Window displays should aim to catch the customers’ attention and drag them into the shop. Something in the display will capture the imagination and encourage an impulse buy. Certain occasions, such as Christmas or Valentine’s Day, are very traditional in flavour, and we tend to turn out the same designs year after year, without perhaps giving enough thought to the matter.
Next Valentine’s Day, why not try something a little different, creating an alternative Valentine’s Day display to appeal to the younger generation? Get your thinking cap on and see what you can come up with to entice those youngsters through the door of your florist Taylor Lake Village shop.

A beautiful flower - Astilbe (garden spirea)
Characteristics: The delicate flowering plumes of astilbe are a welcome addition to any gar­den. Few plants can rival as­tilbes for grace, charm and reliability. A wide range of heights and colors are now available from a florist Jackson Heights. The tiny Astilbe chinensis 'Pumila', a handsome low-growing groundcover; grows to 12 inches and has soft lavender-pink plumes. A. simplici­folia 'Sprite' has cotton-candy pink plumes arching 16 inches above lacy, dark green foliage. 'Deutschland' sends up 18-inch white plumes that glow in se­mi-shady spots or at twilight. A. arendsii, false goat's beard, is the tallest one at 2 to 3 feet. Plant several different varieties to extend the bloom from early July into September. Astilbe plumes are good for cutting and drying.
Harvesting/Drying: If you would like lovely soft pinks and whites for your arrangements, remember to harvest astilbes just before full bloom. Air-dry the pink- and rose-colored varieties; these usually hold their color best. The white plumes tend to turn cream-colored when dried. Try drying in a desiccant if you wish to keep the soft, natural colors. If, however, you are aiming for an autumn-colored arrangement, allow the flower heads to air-dry on the stalks and harvest in late summer. The earthy tones of the late summer astilbe combine perfectly with seedpods and the soft beige of hydrangea flowers. They make wonderful flowers for drying because their sturdy stems do not require wiring.